I didn’t know much about California wine before I moved here, and still have much to learn, but I see now that California wine is not so monolithic as I’d once thought. There are many ways to make wine out west, and it’s not all ripe fruit aged in new wood as I’d come to expect. The subject has proved a moving target, since the last few decades have brought many changes to the industry, the emergence of many small producers, and a move away from the high-alcohol, panty-dropping style that was once California wine’s calling card.
I used to talk about most of the wines I like to drink and sell by saying they were farmed without chemicals and made with minimal intervention. Now folks use the term “natural wine” which means different things to different people, but opens the door to discussing how wine is made, how the fruit is grown and what is added or done to the juice on its way to the bottle and you. Also far from monolithic in style, a natural wine may taste as simple and bland as a dead, confected, commercially farmed wine, or it may explode with sour, yeasty life. Hopefully, it will be a surprisingly delightful balance of fruit, acid and alcohol, that expresses the specific qualities of the vineyard site, grape variety, and growing season.
Wines like these, organically farmed, and, as Joe Dressner used to say, “unspoofulated” are not easy to make. They require careful farming, meticulous fruit sorting, and constant attention in the cellar, the kind of babysitting that only a small-production winemaker with sensitivity and skill can pull off. Terah Bajjalieh is one of those special winemakers whose wines we’ve been enjoying since 2022 when we first tasted with her and brought them into the shop, and we’re proud to welcome Terah back to Oakland Yard to pour flights of her Terah Wine Co. current releases this Saturday from 2 to 6. She’s delightful to chat with, incredibly knowledgeable, and the wines are tasting great!
Also, don’t forget to drop by Oakland Yard’s 9th Anniversary celebration and artisan market on Saturday November 8th from 12 noon until 5pm for the best food, music, wine, art, clothes, houseplants, jewelry and more!!!
But first, TONIGHT...THURSDAY NIGHT FLIGHTS: Domestic whites and Italian reds
2024 Iruai Shasta-Cascade White Wine
2023 Hammerling Point Break Monterey County Chenin Blanc 2021 Vignerons Santa Barbara County Chardonnay
2023 Ficomontanino Noble Kara Rosato di Toscana
2023 Cantine Polvanera Fuso CALX Primitivo
2022 Terra d'Aligi Tatone Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Tasting Flights $15 from 5-9 and wines by the glass until close
SATURDAY 11/1: Winemaker TERAH BAJJALIEH pours TERAH WINE CO. tasting flights
2024 Paicines Ranch Verdejo
2024 Lost Slough Chillable Red
2023 Castro Valley Ranch Red Blend
2024 Mokelumne River Sangiovese
Flights $20 from 2-6 and wines by the glass until 9pm
See you soon,
Max