My first communion was Sunday, April 3rd, 1988, at a sunrise Easter service in Kingston, Jamaica. I had traveled, at sixteen, with the Rochester Philharmonic Youth Orchestra, to tour the island, with host-family lodgings, and concerts booked in several cities. I remember the organist playing the first few bars, and then Edwin, the young violist beside me, blessed with perfect pitch, beginning to squirm, and at some point everyone in my pew stood up and walked down the aisle, so I followed suit and found myself, mouth agape, accepting the Eucharist. It seemed perfectly normal to me – when in Rome, and all – but some time later, I was informed – and this has been confirmed - that this is not a rite normally extended to the uninitiated.

My mother’s family is Jewish, but not the temple-going sort, and my father’s parents were Catholic and Episcopalian, so you might think I’d have known better, but all of this meant that Sundays began as a free day for me. No school, no cello lessons, just a time of rest and leisure, but when I started waiting tables, Sundays often meant working brunch, nobody’s favorite shift after a late Saturday. Or brunch AND dinner, oof! At age nineteen, I had a gaggle of Irish friends working the restaurants on Fire Island, and they dubbed me ‘The Pope of the pool table’, or just ‘Pope’ for short. Young Ciaran would say: “Hey Pope! What’s the craic? You working a double down at The Hideaway today?” And if it was Sunday, my answer was often “Yes, Merch, I am indeed, maybe with a quick, baptismal refresher in the sacred Atlantic between shifts.” They called me Pope for years, and some still do.

When Daniel and I went looking for a storefront for the wine shop five years ago, we viewed the spot on Telegraph that would become Julie’s. (We miss you already, Julie’s!) Nick from Nick’s Pizza on Shattuck, hoping to expand, had built out a kitchen with a brick oven before surrendering his lease, and we toyed then with the idea of opening a combination wine shop and bakery. We thought we might call it ‘The Sacrament’, though I think now the name would play better in the state capitol.

We’ve always wanted to sell bread with our wine, so when baker Lee Magner asked if we’d help distribute his freshly baked artisanal loaves, we were thrilled. Lee’s Brown Bag Bread Club accepts online orders until noon on Thursdays for Friday afternoon pick-up at OAKLAND YARD. That’s right now if you’re quick – click here! These days, I must confess, the tomato toast is my holy communion, and holy communion season is now in full swing in California.

ALSO, beginning this weekend, Oakland Yard will again be OPEN SUNDAYS, from 12 noon until 6pm. For better or worse, we’re getting back in the swing of things, and we’re ready to serve you, now six days a week. So, do what you do on Sunday morning - I’ll be treating myself to an Early Girl on a Brown Bag toast - and then come on down and buy some wine.

We’re open for CURBSIDE PICKUP TUESDAYS through SUNDAYS from NOON until 6pm. Weekly Bouquets are also available from Flower & Forage! Orders accepted Friday- Wednesday for Thursday pickups of fresh flowers here at OAKLAND YARD.

Cheers,

Max

Before we opened shop, and around the time we started started writing you weekly letters, I shared a story about the time I severely dislocated both of my thumbs and sprained my wrists. Anyone who enjoys reading about foolish children suffering can click here to read that memory. Having already tested the strength of readers' patience, I refrained from telling the second chapter to that story. But the feelings that followed that injury are with me this morning.

I ended up with two cumbersome custom casts, and all of the self-confidence that one would imagine accompanying those accessories. I remember the doctor's assurance that I'll heal in no time, but might need mom's help for the bathroom .. and his deflating chuckle. The casts were small but ridiculous, the mock turtlenecks of casts - starting a few inches below my wrists and extending up one side to protect and cap off my thumbs. Like some strange village punishment for hitchhikers. In defiance of the doctor's cruel daydreams, I figured a manageable strategy to use the restroom unassisted, with the humble patience of a senior. 

The girls I yearned to impress and other neighborhood kids would drop in to visit, in the weeks that followed that summer. If not for me, then possibly for the pool the new house offered. I spent most the summer on the balcony above, with my casts dry and elevated. watching their cannonballs and games of Marco! Polo! below, occasionally waving them on, like some ancient uncle or a hapless lifeguard. The glory of summer visible and present, but distant, inaccessible.


Sidelined once again this season... summer continues, even if we can't enjoy its full warmth. But we remain here for you. The grays and gloom of the Bay skies might not call you poolside, but we have all the crisp, mineral whites and dry rosé, orange wines, and and light, fresh chillable reds for when the sun breaks and the moment feels right. And we have some fun new offerings too to brighten your days and mornings. Weekly Bouquets are now available from Flower & Forage! Orders accepted Friday-Wednesday for Thursday pickups of fresh flowers here at OAKLAND YARD. Also Lee Magner of Brown Bag Breads is offering weekly pick ups here too - fresh baked Oland Wheat loaves and Semolina Sesame with Rye. ORDER by THURSDAY at noon (yes, today - click here!) for Friday pick up.

And WE ARE OPEN for all wine and snack needs.. CURBSIDE PICK UP every day - we are NOW OPEN UNTIL 6pm! Thank you for all the orders and support, and for the warmth we can access. 

Much love,

Daniel

I was a child of the seventies, wearing loud plaid pants and trading football cards, with Free to Be You and Me on the record player. I didn’t know what an interesting time it was politically, but the adults in the room and on the news were discussing nuclear power, the Vietnam War, the Women’s Liberation movement, and other incomprehensible issues.

In 1971, the year I was born, an outspoken Jewish feminist from New York City was elected to the House of Representatives. Her name was Bella Abzug, nicknamed ‘battling Bella’ for her outspoken opposition to injustice, and she, I know now, is one of the people in my lifetime who helped to change this country for the better. Abzug was a leader of the Women’s Movement, a social activist, and a lawyer who took on dangerous civil rights cases in the South in the 1940’s. “Women have been trained to talk softly and carry a lipstick,” Abzug averred. Her congressional campaign slogan was “This woman’s place is in the House – the House of Representatives.”

Also in the auspicious year of 1971, Abzug, along with Betty Friedan, Shirley Chisholm, Gloria Steinem, Fannie Lou Hamer, and others, founded the National Women’s Political Caucus, an organization dedicated to increasing women’s political power. In addition to her devotion to gender equity and racial justice, Bella Abzug was an early champion of gay rights, introducing to Congress, along with former New York mayor, Ed Koch, the first federal gay rights bill, the Equality Act of 1974. And in 1975, Abzug traveled to Saigon as the only member of a congressional delegation opposed to our involvement in the Vietnam War, and subsequently helped to build broad support for a policy of disengagement.

Bella Abzug was born in the Bronx on July 24th, 1920, so tomorrow would have been her 99th birthday. When she passed away in 1998, a former aide noted “It wasn’t that she was the first woman in Congress. It was that she was the first woman to get in Congress and lead the way toward creating feminist presence.” Thank you, Battling Bella. Here’s to you, and to all of us who continue to shout loudly and stand tall, still fighting for freedom and justice for all.

Cheers,

Max

My hair is five months long, and in the bathroom mirror in the morning, it does a good impression of Albert Einstein. I’m learning to hear through masks, and to read the eyes of the few people I encounter. Our isolation gives the impression of a new experience of time; not much happens, but it’s all gone by so fast. How often can I eat tamales for lunch before I grow tired of them? How many cans of tuna make up a whole fish? Will PPE tan lines give us pasty five o’clock shadows and bronze-banded eye goggles? So many questions.

It is an odd way to greet the summer, with wariness and covered faces, toes in the water, and individually wrapped snacks. A lot was supposed to happen this month. Any other year, we’d be buying kegs and booking bands, gearing up for the 40th Street block party. We’ve got a freshly paved back lot, but no artisan flea markets on the calendar just yet. And Bikini Kill and the Circle Jerks were supposed to play Mosswood Park this weekend, but the Burger Boogaloo’s been rescheduled for Halloween.

Oaklanders are getting tested, going camping, and finding ways to visit loved ones safely. We’re not thrilled about it, but we’re not stupid either. We have a healthy fear of the virus, like the fear of the whale, which Captain Ahab notably required of his Pequod crew. We will not pod up with fools. We’re going to enjoy this summer by keeping the party small, and maintaining our distance.

We’ve been receiving loads of exciting new wines, and the Oakland Yard provisions larder is chock full of cheeses, meats, crackers, olives, olive oil, anchovies, sardines, tinned mussels in escabeche, and Dick Taylor chocolate. And we’ve teamed up with artisan baker, Lee Magner, of Brown Bag Breads, as his first weekly east bay distributor. Buy a loaf online at Brown Bag Breads by Wednesday evening and pick up your freshly baked bread at Oakland Yard on Friday afternoon.

Don’t just hang in there, folks, enjoy your summer! And remember, if you’ve got a melon, we’ve got the prosciutto.
 

Cheers,
Max

I moved to California in 1993, with a cello in tow and five summers of restaurant work under my belt. I was 21 years old, living with two college friends in a small one-bedroom apartment on Derby and Telegraph, and I landed a job bussing tables and stocking wine at Chez Panisse. I did not know the restaurant’s revolutionary reputation; my world was still so very small, and I was simply happy to have a job.

My coworkers at Chez Panisse were characters from all walks of life, ranging in age from sixteen to sixty, and from every corner of the world. The one thing they seemed to have in common was a love of fresh food, and a dedication to meticulous yet unfussy service. There were bussers from Berkeley High School, and from Iran, line cooks from Walnut Creek, and Italy, French waiters, and an Austrian floor manager, and they mostly all got on pretty well together. After just a few years, I felt like I’d been adopted by an enormous and colorful international family.

The best part of the wine stocking job was lunch. The leftovers from the previous day’s menus were reworked by the garde manger and laid out on the picnic table, and the office workers, reservationists, cooks and myself would sit and indulge in crab with celery root remoulade, or blood orange and fennel salad, or duck leg confit, and never without a fruit tart or chocolate pudding to finish.

I recall one lunch in particular, though not for the food, rather as an eye-opening experience. I was sitting with Dondhup, Khalil, and Raul, and they were telling stories of how they ended up in the US. Dondhup, along with several others at the restaurant, had arrived in Berkeley just a few years earlier, when visas became available to Tibetans living in India and Nepal. Khalil and his son Yosef had fled their Afghan home and trekked through mountains with only what they could carry before coming to California. And then there was Raoul: “The first time we tried to row from Cuba to Florida, they caught us and put us in jail,” he explained. “Then I started lifting weights, and the next time, we made it.”

Thank you, Chez Panisse, for the delicious lunches, and for expanding my mind by welcoming so many refugees into the family. At that picnic table, I began to understand that the strength and richness of our society is inextricably bound up in our diversity, and we must continue to value and embrace the other. Let us march on and raise our voices to this effect.


Missing you,

Max

Two weeks ago, I wrote of reawakening. The news of George Floyd’s brutal murder was not yet widespread, and I imagined Oakland’s sleepy reemergence from months of pandemic hibernation. Then we heard, and saw, the reports from Minneapolis, and something amazing happened. Instead of looking the other way, and exonerating the racist criminals, this time, Americans of all colors, across the nation, and citizens around the world, responded with vehemence, united in opposition to the violent oppression and deeply rooted bigotry that has plagued our country since its founding, and much of America began a completely different kind of awakening. It is anything but sleepy; it is raging with righteous anger, and it will be ugly and painful, but it portends real and positive change, and we owe it – and much more – to our disenfranchised fellow citizens.

We, the owners of Oakland Yard, believe that white supremacy should be eradicated in all of its forms. We acknowledge the advantages we have been afforded because of our race, and we are working to understand the roles we, and other white Americans, have played to maintain this unfounded and egregious hegemony, so that we may help to fully dismantle it. We applaud the people’s uprising and anti- racist agenda, and we wholly support the Movement for Black Lives. We pledge to listen carefully, to think critically, to contribute resources, and to act decisively in service of a more just society.

Starting today, Oakland Yard will donate proceeds from our new STAFF FAVORITES SUMMER SIX-PACK to the Anti Police-Terror Project. This six-pack is an assortment of our most popular and beloved bottles currently available (2 dry white wines, 1 dry rosé, 3 fresh reds) on sale now for $120. ORDER ONLINE for curbside pick up, TUE-SAT 12-5. 


With love,

Max


photo credit @endeavors_oakland/Instagram

I was behind bars in New York for a good part of my thirties, serving not time, but drinks, of good old ethanol. It was Manhattan, at the turn of the century, and the year 2000, followed by the fallen towers, made us all rather hopeless and confused. It was then, as it is now, hard to see the way forward, but cocktails, in the wake of the Cosmopolitan, were enjoying a resurgence in popularity, and I applied myself with focus to the craft.

The history of mixed drinks is rich and colorful, and generally acknowledged to begin with the 1862 publication of barman Jerry Thomas’ The Bon Vivant’s Companion. Bartenders who took themselves seriously were aware of the contributions of Thomas, as well as others, like Dale DeGroff, Ada Coleman, and Oakland’s own Victor ‘Trader Vic’ Bergeron. When I came to Manhattan in the late 90’s, the scene was nascent but high-quality, including Sasha Petraske’s incomparable speakeasy, Milk and Honey, where a reservation, and etiquette, were required; the hidden whiskey bar, Angels’ Share, where, having entered through an unmarked door, in the back of an upstairs restaurant near Astor Place, you could enjoy a fastidiously built drink and the coolest Jazz, and The Lansky Lounge, with it’s hidden, lower east side back alley entrance, and classic cocktails.

As the bar manager at Five Points restaurant, on Great Jones Street, I created a cocktail menu that relied on fresh juices, spices, herbs, and infused spirits. I also trained Jim Mehan, author of the PDT cocktail guide and much-touted mixologist, who got his start behind the bar at Five Points. I don’t believe I would care to drink any of the selections on that list today – one with whiskey and muddled fig jam comes clumsily to mind - but I’d like to think they helped inform some of the more creative cocktails offered today.

I eventually left the bar for the more attractive hours of retail wine sales, but I still enjoy a mixed drink from time to time, as it appears many of you do as well, and though we cannot sell the hard stuff at Oakland Yard, we do carry many Vermouths and aperitifs, some delicious on their own, over ice, like the bittersweet Cocchi Americano, or Dolin or Berto Blanc, and others that will turn your gin or whiskey into a splendid Martini, Negroni or Manhattan with a quick shake or stir. We also stock Cappelletti, an aperitif similar to Campari, a splash of which in your sparkling wine will make an irresistibly delicious Italian Spritz. As the weather warms, and nothing much else happens, please consider our many non-wine options as a way to bring a bit of the bar back home and put a little spice in your glass.

Cheers,

Max